Mangalajodi wetlands: Bridging Nature and community through birds

The first light of dawn spills across the Mangalajodi wetlands, setting the vast marshland aglow with shimmering slanting morning light. A symphony of calls rises from the reeds—squawking egrets, gaggling geese, melodious warblers, and the haunting whistles of Pintails ducks, it is one cacophony of confusion. The wetlands, located on the northern fringes of Odisha’s Chilika Lake, are a spectacle of nature, a harbour where thousands of birds find sanctuary and where human resilience has reshaped conservation.

Having visited these wonderful wetlands twice in the last ten years I was eager to see the present status of the magnificent Mangalajodi and encounter the spread of species in this remote and rustic location. Nearly 70 km southwest of Bhubaneswar, Mangalajodi is a paradise for bird lovers, sheltering over 300 species, both resident and migratory. Come winter, its waters turn into a living mosaic of wings, beats, quills, bills, and beaks as nearly 200,000 migratory birds arrive from the distant lands of the northern hemisphere.

Chilika Lake, the largest coastal lagoon in India and the second largest in the world spans over 1,100 square kilometres across Odisha, covering Puri, Khurda, and Ganjam districts. This brackish water lagoon, fed by over 50 rivers and rivulets, is separated from the Bay of Bengal by a narrow sandbar, with seawater ingress through the outer channel near Satapada. The lake’s size fluctuates with the seasons, expanding significantly during the monsoon. There are multiple access points to explore its vast water spread and one entry at Mangalajodi attracts birdwatchers, especially during winter when the lake becomes a haven for migratory birds.

Mangalajodi is a small part of Chilika Lake, but is vastly different in its makeup. Narrow, reed-lined water channels connect the main Chilika Lake to a freshwater zone on its northern frontier. However, the habitat of Mangalajodi is an amalgamation of shallow freshwater, weeds, reeds, marshes, mud-bunds, and tall standing grass and is very different from the rest of Chilika Lake. The waters of Mangalajodi are barely two to three feet deep and are a dramatic departure from Chilika Lake’s expansive grayscale panorama. Spread across roughly 100 sq km, the marshlands reed beds, and patches of open water create a marvelous mosaic of habitat.

My first boat safari was not among the most captivating sights as the number of Black-tailed Godwits, a long-distance flier that traverses continents to seek refuge in these tranquil waters, was far and few between. There are also the Great egrets, Grey herons, Purple herons standing tall among the reeds, and the graceful Pheasant-tailed Jacana, walking effortlessly over floating vegetation. The wetlands are also home to an incredible variety of ducks—Garganeys, Gadwalls, and Common Teals—all dabbling in the shallow waters, creating ripples in the glassy expanse. However, the numbers are seemingly much lesser than my two previous visits in 2015 and 2019 when I visited with fellow twitchers for a bird binge.

Hunters to protectors

Mangalajodi’s story is not just about beautiful birds; it is about rustic people. Once notorious as a hub for bird poaching, the region has undergone a remarkable transformation. Decades ago, villagers hunted birds to sustain themselves, selling the meat in local markets. The wetlands were their hunting grounds, and the birds and fish in the lake waters were seen as a source of livelihood. My guide tells me that the Pintail Duck is delicious and does not need spices to make it tasty, a few ingredients are enough to pep up its delight.

However, a turning point came in the early 2000s, when local conservationists, backed by organizations, began working with the community. They showed the villagers that protecting the birds could bring more sustainable benefits than hunting them. Slowly, the hunters turned into guardians, and today, many former poachers are birding guides, boatmen, and organisers navigating visitors through the waterways in traditional country boats, their keen eyes spotting rare species amid the floating weeds and submerged reeds.

Thriving ecosystem

Beyond its avian wonders, Mangalajodi thrives as a complex wetland ecosystem. Its marshes and mudflats support fish, amphibians, and reptiles, creating a food chain that sustains the diverse bird population. The region’s aquatic vegetation, such as Water Hyacinths, Hydrilla, Typha grass, provides resting and nesting grounds for numerous species, while its nutrient-rich waters attract insects and plankton, ensuring a bountiful feast for birds to feed.

The balance of this ecosystem, however, is fragile. Wetlands across the world are disappearing at an alarming rate due to climate change, pollution, and human encroachment. Fortunately, Mangalajodi stands as a beacon of successful conservation, proving that coexistence between humans and wildlife is not only possible but also rewarding.

Magic of Mangalajodi

At the end of five boat safaris with each lasting 3 to 4 hours I had my fill of birding and bird photography. But the greed in me was not satisfied and was seeking more species and some action in birds with their respective hunting skills. Visiting Mangalajodi is an experience of pure wonder. As the sun rises over the wetlands, the morning mist gives way to endless flocks of birds in flight. The water, reflecting a hundred hues of dawn, becomes a canvas for nature’s brushstrokes. Drifting silently in a boat, you can witness birds at astonishingly close quarters—unlike most other birding destinations where the creatures are often skittish and scamper.

Future of Mangalajodi

Mangalajodi is not just a place; it is a testament to nature’s resilience and humanity’s ability to change. It is a reminder that conservation is not just about protecting species—it is about preserving stories, traditions, and the timeless bond between humans and the wild. On the last day of my last boat safari, we were fortunate to get a glimpse of the Peregrine falcon and the Brahminy kite deploy their aerial hunting acumen. So, the next time you seek an escape into nature, let the call of Mangalajodi guide you. Here, in this magical wetland, birds and humans share a common home, a testament to what is possible when harmony triumphs over destruction.